How to assemble the CantiLover JUMBO for 180 and 256 beds, 5 tiers
On a 180 or 256 printer bed, each JUMBO tier prints as two halves that join down the middle with dovetail keys and rivets. Join every tier first, then the build is the same as the Light's: pins, dividers, legs, and the trays bottom to top. This guide builds the 256; the 180 differs only in its legs.
Every picture is a render of TeamGraphika's master files, exactly as he drew them, not a photo of a print. The colours are ours: in the step pictures, the parts a step adds are pink, the parts already on are blue. The stand is TeamGraphika's, shown with his permission; we host no files.
The finished stand
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256 bed, open
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256 bed, closed
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256 bed, from above
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180 bed, open
Pick the package for your printer bed
- 180 bed5 tiers as renderedEach leg prints as two half-shells that lock together with a collar.
- 256 bed5 tiers as renderedOne-piece legs.
The steps below are the same for every bed. Where a part differs, the step says so.
What to print
- 2 x Tray Bottom, Left and Right halves: one tier
- 6 x Tray Middle, Left and Right halves: three tiers
- 2 x Tray Top, Left and Right halves: one tier; it carries the leg sockets and the pegboard slot
- 6 x Long arm (Tray Hinges): three holes
- 4 x Short arm (Tray Hinges): two holes
- 26 x Hinge pin (Tray Hinge Lock): goes in from inside the tray
- 10 x Dovetail key (Tray Connector Dovetail): two a tier; one plate, the rest spare
- 10 x Seam rivet pair (Tray Connector Buttons): two a tier, each a sleeve and a post; print two plates, six pairs spare
- 2 x 5 Tier Legs 256: one piece per leg
- 20 x Tray Divider: one in every groove
- 2 x Pegboard Holder: optional; one per Top half
- 6 x Pegboard 256: optional; loose panels carried on the holders
- 2 x Stack Holder Single 256: optional; for carrying, closed
- 2 x Handles: optional
- 1 x Handle Connector: optional
Print tips
- TeamGraphika's figures: the original takes about 34 hours and 1,350 g for trays and bins with covers; the Light about 26 hours and 1,070 g, at 2 walls and 10% infill.
- Pins at 0.12 mm layers, or the 45-degree pin at 0.16 mm, in PETG. Fine layers are what stop them snapping at the barb.
- Built for a 256 x 256 bed; the Light tray inside is about 234 x 94 x 57 mm with four bays of about 55 mm (TeamGraphika, in the comments).
Step by step
Key and rivet each tier's two halves first, then pins, dividers and legs, then the trays bottom to top.
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Step 1. Print and sort the kit
Print every part in the list from the folder that matches your printer's bed. Sort the arms into long and short, and keep the pins, the seam rivets and the dovetail keys in separate cups.
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- 10 tray halves, 10 arms, 26 pins, 10 rivet pairs, 10 dovetail keys, 2 leg pieces, 20 dividers
- 30 sections
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Step 2. Key each tier's two halves together
Lay the two halves of one tier side by side, seam walls together, and turn them over so the bottom faces up. Each seam wall has two dovetail slots that meet across the seam. Slide a dovetail key into each pair of slots, the end with the slanted corners first, and push it all the way in until its foot is flush with the bottom of the tray. The bow-tie shape pulls the two halves together and lines them up. Key every tier the same way.
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- 10 dovetail keys, 2 a tier, one per slot pair
- Key 9.63 mm wide at its faces, 7.62 mm at its waist, 21.4 mm long, 1.6 mm into each half
- Slot 1.7 mm deep, 7.81 to 9.83 mm wide: 0.1 mm a side around the key
- The slot opens at the tray foot and runs 20.3 mm up at full depth, then closes on a 45 degree ceiling at 22 mm; the key slides 21.4 mm, its whole length, to sit foot flush
- Halves butt at a 0 mm gap
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Step 3. Rivet the seam
Turn the tier right way up. Push a rivet sleeve into each seam hole from inside the left half and a rivet post in from inside the right half, and press until they snap. Rivet every tier the same way.
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- Rivet hole 5.2 mm, latched span 6 mm (two 3 mm walls)
- 2 rivet pairs a tier; 10 fitted from 2 plates of 8 (6 spare)
- Flange 10 mm in a 10.17 mm counterbore on each tray's inside face
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Step 4. Push the pins in from inside
Push a pin into every hinge hole from inside the tray, so the head sits in the pocket on the inside wall and the shaft sticks out through the end. Turn each pin slightly sideways as you push. Pin both ends of every tier before you fit any arm.
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- Pin shaft 5 mm in a 5.2 mm bore, 0.1 mm a side
- 26 pins, 13 a side
- Bores from the front of each half: Bottom 50, 80 mm; Middle 20, 50, 80 mm; Top 20, 50 mm
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Step 5. Drop in the dividers
Drop a divider into every groove of every tier now. Once the arms are on there is no room to get one past them.
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- 4 a tier, 20 in all (5 plates of 4)
- 3 sections a half of 48.67 mm on a 52.67 mm groove pitch
- Top of a divider 8.24 mm under the tray above
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Step 6. Fit the legs to the Top tier
Turn the Top tier upside down on the table. Push a leg into the socket under each back outside corner until it bottoms out. The legs hold up the back of the Top tier, so fit them now, before the tiers are stacked.
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- Leg column 265 mm: one piece
- Socket engagement 25 mm, 0.1 mm a side
- 2 leg pieces
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Step 7. Press on the Bottom tier's arms
Stand the Bottom tier on the table, front lip toward you. At each end press a short arm onto the front pin and a long arm onto the back pin, the free holes pointing up and back.
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- Tier rise 60 mm, step back 60 mm
- Tier floor at 0 mm
- Arms starting here, a side: 1 long, 1 short
- Arm hole pitch 67.08 mm, arms lean 26.57 degrees
- Ladder holes front to back: 2, 3, 3, 3, 2
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Step 8. Stack the first Middle tier
Lower the first Middle tier between the arms and snap its pins into the free arm holes. Then press a long arm onto the back pin at each end.
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- Tier rise 60 mm, step back 60 mm
- Tier floor at 60 mm
- Arms starting here, a side: 1 long
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Step 9. Stack the second Middle tier
Lower the second Middle tier between the arms and snap its pins into the free arm holes. Then press a long arm onto the back pin at each end.
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- Tier rise 60 mm, step back 60 mm
- Tier floor at 120 mm
- Arms starting here, a side: 1 long
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Step 10. Stack the third Middle tier
Lower the third Middle tier between the arms and snap its pins into the free arm holes. Then press a short arm onto the back pin at each end.
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- Tier rise 60 mm, step back 60 mm
- Tier floor at 180 mm
- Arms starting here, a side: 1 short
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Step 11. Set the Top tier on last
Lower the Top tier, legs and all, between the last arms and snap its pins into the free holes. Stand the organizer up: the Bottom tier rests on the table and the legs hold up the back.
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- Tier rise 60 mm, step back 60 mm
- Tier floor at 240 mm
- Open stand 336.4 x 348.2 x 300 mm
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Step 12. Hang the pegboards
Seat a pegboard holder in the slot along the back of each Top half, tongues down. Hang loose pegboards on its tabs, up to three a side.
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- 3 panels a holder, 6 on 2 holders
- Panel 200 x 146.6 x 4.8 mm
- Holder tongues span 146.2 mm in the Top tray's back slot
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Step 13. Fold it and fit the handle
To carry it, fold the organizer shut: lift the Top tier and the tiers settle straight down onto each other. Lift the back pegboard off each holder. Slide a stack holder down over each end of the tier just under the Top, and its leg, until the tooth drops into the leg's notch. Push a handle through each holder's window, lift it to seat, and join the two handles in the middle with the sleeve.
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- Closed 336.4 x 108.2 x 300 mm, open 336.4 x 348.2 x 300 mm
- The arms swing 53.13 degrees to close
- Stack holder tooth on the leg notch at 178.8 mm, band top 0.2 mm under the Top tray
- Two panels a side stay hung; the back station is the stack holder's
Questions and numbers
The measurements, counts and settings, kept out of the steps. Tap a question to open it.
Which bed size do I need?
TeamGraphika draws the Jumbo for 180 x 180 x 180 mm, 256 x 256 x 256 mm and 320 x 320 x 320 mm printer beds; print from the folder that matches yours. This guide is the 256 build: 5 tiers, 30 sections.
What print settings does TeamGraphika use?
TeamGraphika prints the Jumbo at 2 walls and 10% infill, 0.2 mm layers for most plates and 0.12 mm layers for the tray locks.
How far apart are the tiers?
Each tier sits 60 mm above and 60 mm behind the one below, set by the arms' 67.08 mm hole pitch. Open, the stand is 336.4 x 348.2 x 300 mm; closed, the tiers stack straight up at 336.4 x 108.2 x 300 mm.
What size are the pins and holes?
The hinge pin's shaft is 5 mm in a 5.2 mm bore, 0.1 mm a side; its head sits in a pocket on the inside wall. The seam rivets go through 5.2 mm holes and latch at 6 mm, the two 3 mm walls they clamp. TeamGraphika's tip: turn each pin slightly sideways as you push.
Why is there a seam down the middle of every tier?
A whole tier is 320 mm across, wider than the 180 or 256 bed, so TeamGraphika splits each tier into a Left and a Right half, 160 mm each, that fit the smaller beds; the dovetail keys and rivets join them back into one tray. On a 320 bed every tier prints whole and has no seam. In TeamGraphika's words: "Those with bigger printers don't need to connect the trays, handles and legs together."
Which way does a dovetail key go, and how far?
Each key is a bow tie, 9.63 mm wide at its faces and narrower at its waist, so once it is in it holds the two halves together and keeps them lined up front to back. One end has slanted corners that match the slanted top of the slot: that end goes in first, from under the seam, and the key slides its whole 21.4 mm length until its foot is flush with the bottom of the tray. There are two keys a tier, one in each slot pair.
What if a dovetail key is tight?
TeamGraphika does not say: neither the Jumbo post nor its updates mention the keys, so a fix for a tight key is not documented. What the masters show: the key is drawn with 0.1 mm a side in its slot, and TeamGraphika ships 18 keys on the plate for 10 slots, so there are spares to try.
Do the 180 and 256 use the same keys and rivets?
Yes. Tray Connector Dovetail.stl and Tray Connector Buttons.stl are byte for byte the same file in TeamGraphika's 180 and 256 folders, in the first release and in V4 (sha256 5792f9d65ea2 and 1619056b8b4e), and so are the six tray halves, so every slot and hole lines up the same on both beds. The 320 ships no keys or rivets.
How long are the legs?
The leg column is 265 mm from the table to the top of its socket under the Top tier, which it enters 25 mm with 0.1 mm a side. On the 180 bed each leg is two pieces joined in a lock collar (132.5 + 130.5 mm across a 2 mm web). On the 256 bed each leg is one 265 mm piece.
How many of each part?
2 x Tray Bottom, Left and Right halves; 6 x Tray Middle, Left and Right halves; 2 x Tray Top, Left and Right halves; 6 x Long arm (Tray Hinges); 4 x Short arm (Tray Hinges); 26 x Hinge pin (Tray Hinge Lock); 10 x Dovetail key (Tray Connector Dovetail); 10 x Seam rivet pair (Tray Connector Buttons); 2 x 5 Tier Legs 256; 20 x Tray Divider; 2 x Pegboard Holder; 6 x Pegboard 256; 2 x Stack Holder Single 256; 2 x Handles; 1 x Handle Connector.
Why are there spare rivets and dovetail keys?
A 5-tier stand fits 10 rivet pairs, two per tier, and one plate carries 8, so print 2 plates and keep 6 pairs spare. The dovetail plate carries 18 keys for 10 slots.
What is different on the 180, 256 and 320?
The 180 and 256 share the same tray halves, arms, pins, seam fasteners and dividers; the legs and pegboards differ. The 180's legs are two pieces joined in a lock collar (132.5 + 130.5 mm across a 2 mm web). The 256's legs are one 265 mm piece. The 320 prints each tier as one full-width tray, so it has no seam, rivets or dovetail keys, and its legs are one piece, drawn for 6 and 7 tiers. The 320 has a guide of its own.
Which stand do I have?
The CantiLover (the original booth organizer) has heavier trays and bins with covers. The Light has thinner trays and dividers. The JUMBO is twice the width: on a 180 or 256 bed each tier prints as two halves joined down the middle, and on a 320 bed each tier prints whole.
Which version are these pictures?
Light V3, CantiLover V4 and JUMBO V4 and V5 files, rendered as drawn. The Light's step pictures are drawn from its V2 files: V3 changed the cover notch and added a second leg that prints flat, so the steps are the same.
Where are the files?
On TeamGraphika's Patreon. Printed Layer hosts none of them; our free add-ons are shared in his community Discord.
Where our add-ons go
Free Printed Layer add-ons that fit this stand, grouped by what each one fits. Every card links to its design page.
For the JUMBO 180/256
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MultiBuild pegboard, Jumbo 180 On Discord
Fits CantiLover Jumbo V5 (180 bed)
A MultiBoard panel for the Jumbo 180 top tray, with 25 large and 36 small threaded holes and hidden carrier slots. One part fits both halves.
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MultiBuild pegboard, Jumbo 256 On Discord
Fits CantiLover Jumbo V5 (256 bed)
A MultiBoard panel for the Jumbo 256 top tray, with 30 large and 42 small threaded holes and hidden carrier slots. One part fits both halves.
For any CantiLover
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MultiBoard sign bracket On Discord
Fits MultiBuild pegboards
TeamGraphika's Jumbo sign holder, remade to clip onto the top edge of a MultiBuild board. His Blank Sign still slides in unchanged.
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MultiBoard to MultiBoard clip On Discord
Fits MultiBuild pegboards
Joins two MultiBuild boards side by side, and still takes a TeamGraphika Blank Sign across the joint.
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MultiBoard side-to-side clip On Discord
Fits MultiBuild pegboards
Joins two MultiBuild boards edge to edge with a channel on each side.
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Tall handle connector In testing
Fits CantiLover 5, 6, and 7-tier stands
TeamGraphika's 4-Stack Handle connector, stretched so the stacked carry works on taller stands.
Get the stand and the add-ons
TeamGraphika's files are on his Patreon, and our add-ons are shared in his community Discord.
Also: CantiLover guide and CantiLover Light guide and CantiLover JUMBO 320 guide.